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CenterstageChicago.com Presents: Travel + Tourism
Chicago Travel + Tourism: Original Content from Centerstage Chicago

  • Lake Geneva for Semi-Locals
    Lake Geneva
    It's nearing the end of the summer. You haven't had a good escape yet, but you're not financially secure enough to book that last-minute cruise or get reservations at one of those crazy Vegas pool parties. Yet you still need to get some sun, cut loose, have a few drinks (the cheaper the better) and wouldn't mind getting out of Illinois for just a little while. What to do? Despite the label tacked to Lake Geneva, calling it the Riviera of Chicagoland's richie-rich types, you can have a decently inexpensive weekend without swilling chardonnay and nibbling cucumber sandwiches on the deck of one of the scions of the Wrigley family. And you can even have fun doing it. Consider this the inside look at Centerstage's semi-local suggestions for what to do in and near Lake Geneva when you're young, broke and beautiful (or even moderately attractive). Chuck's Lakeshore Inn
    352 Lake St, Fontana
    While ground zero of tourism in Lake Geneva revolves around the intersection of Main & Broad streets, it?s easy to forget that there are other places around the lake to grab a sandwich and a drink that don?t have their place in the city proper. Chuck?s Tavern is almost exactly all the way across the lake, and while it?s just a few miles away from downtown it?s an eternity away in terms of attitude. Just steps from the beach and very boater-friendly, Chuck's is a nice escape from the relative rat race of the Geneva scene. Chicagoans will feel right at home with gravy bread on the menu, but will quickly be reminded of why you appreciate the smoking ban. You take the good with the bad, and with drinks like the Sweetart (a lot of booze mixed with grape soda) and a beautiful view of the lake, it's weighted far more toward the "good." Fred's Parkview Tavern
    596 N Pine St, Burlington
    Let the ads and the billboards tell you where to find the best burger in Lake Geneva. Then ignore them completely and grab one of the best burgers you'll ever have, before you even hit town. Fred's in nearby Burlington cranks out hand-formed hamburgers made from beefily beautiful fresh-ground chuck kissed with special seasonings, perfectly cooked to order and covered in the cheeses and fixings of your choice. They know their way around a deep fryer as well: onion rings are golden and crisp, curly fries hand-cut and crunchy, and other various fryer-bathed appetizers piping hot and never greasy. A burger with some Wisconsin cheddar, some fresh fries and a couple Spotted Cows on draft approaches true 'Sconnie nirvana.

    Hogs & KissesPhoto: Courtesy of Hogs & Kisses
    Hogs & Kisses
    149 Broad St., Lake Geneva, (262) 248-7447
    The downtown area is well-stocked with diner style restaurants, sports bars, brunch places and other various eateries and drinkeries. Having wandered the wilds of Main Street and the beachfront over the years, we?ve subjectively determined Hogs & Kisses to be our go-to choice of the downtown drinking establishments.

    Part biker-ish bar, part local watering hole, part late-night dining option, Hogs & Kisses offers a good selection of draft beers including the can't-get-it-in-Chicago New Glarus, a dependable menu with a kitchen that stays open late, friendly staff, and we won't hold the tendency to go dance-party on the weekends against them. Plenty of specials abound, including a respectable bloody mary on Sundays (don?t forget the Leinie?s beer back). Should you feel slightly sinful about imbibing them on the Sabbath, thankfully the interior has been partially scavenged from Chicago-area buildings, including churches. Keep an eye out for stained glass and confessional booths to keep the guilt level under control.

    Popeye's
    811 Wrigley Dr., Lake Geneva, (262) 248-4381
    Right now you're thinking, "Centerstage is sending me to a chain fried chicken spot?" But no, they're not the cajun-esque fried chicken chain. When you see the meats slowly grilling and rotisserie-cooking outside the lakefront building, you'll forget about red beans & rice immediately. Despite our promise to send you to the semi-local's places, Popeye's is a place that everyone can agree on. Part BBQ joint, part Greek diner, part fish fryer, this tries to be a lot of things to a lot of different people, and for the most part comes away standing. Can you get better BBQ, steak and seafood in Chicago? Yeah, but can you get them all in one place, with as serene as a view of the lake and some skordalia (garlic spread) on the side? Not a chance.

    Sugar Shack
    County Road H, Lake Geneva
    Under normal circumstances, the Centerstage morality police wouldn't allow us to suggest anything approaching a house of ill repute, a burlesque parlor or other place that might contain people wearing not much more than a smile. We're hoping they'll let this particular entry pass because the Sugar Shack, the only establishment with "nude entertainment" in town, is one of those rare anomalies - they have both male and female performers. Yes, show up on the weekends and it's not just the guys who get to see an eyeful of skin. This equal-opportunity joint caters to the women as well, providing a full show to the ladies on Friday and Saturday nights. While the Lake Geneva chamber of commerce would probably prefer we not have you associate the town with EEOC strippers, we really just want to be the one travel guide to acknowledge one of the town's true originals. It's out there - and up to you whether it's your particular cup of tea.

    Check out Centerstage Chicago food and drink deals!



  • Virtual L: Belmont (Blue)
    Despite popular opinion, life in Avondale does not begin and end with the awesome eats at Kuma's Corner and Hot Doug's. Hop on the Blue Line for a taste of what else is going on in this heavily Polish 'hood - no two-hour wait necessary.

    Best of the nightlife
    Late Bar

    Open until 5am on Saturdays, this spot (from the folks behind the popular Planet Earth events) lives up to its name. Comparisons have been drawn between the crowd at Late Bar and other aspects of Chicago nightlife past and present, from the bearded, long-haired partiers at Neo to the late-night gutterpunkers of the former all-ages club Medusa's. All we know is that you'll find great music, from new wave to vintage rock, spun here nearly every night of the week.

    Good for groups
    Alice's Lounge

    This bar brings in a wide range of folks interested in four things: cheap beer, friendly service, friendly patrons and karaoke. You may not be able to find a table on Tuesday and Saturday nights, when singing rules, but you are sure to meet some new friends as you dance to party jams from the likes of Michael Jackson and Gloria Gaynor. Just be sure you pick a funky song to sing when it's your turn - this can be a tough crowd.

    Cheap eats
    Nha Trang

    You're not just waited on at this Vietnamese restaurant - you're doted on a bit, too. One visit to Nha Trang and the owners will remember your face and greet you like family. While the dishes aren't free like at your real mom's, they're pretyt darn close: try the hearty Pho Tai (beef rice noodle soup) for just $4.25 or a generous bowl of sliced tofu curry in savory peanut sauce ($4.50). Where to chill
    KJ's Corner Restaurant

    KJ's is a restaurant in the grand tradition of Chicago corner greasy spoons. Once called "snack shops" by your parents, these diners used to populate storefronts where major and not-so-major intersections met, serving as part newsstand, coffee shop and social hub. So come in with the paper, order a cup of coffee, and have a seat at the counter. Order an "old fashioned" plate of turkey, with mashed potatoes and gravy (just $6), and let the Chicago that used to be wash over you.

    In-the-know spot
    Dragonlady Lounge

    You probably don't expect an all-you-can eat vegan Korean buffet at your local dive bar, but that's exactly what you get at this ridiculously friendly spot every Thursday from 7-9 p.m.. The delicious spread ($12, $7.99 on the first Thursday of each month) includes an array of dishes like tofu curry, sauteed broccoli, kimchee and other delights. A full bar is available, too.

    Need more help getting around? Use our Virtual L to find places by train stop or by neighborhood.

    Check out Centerstage Chicago food and drink deals!



  • Virtual L: Damen (Brown)
    Not far from the main drag of Lincoln Square, where there always seems to be something happening, you'll find a more low-key, almost small-town feel, where all types of folks gather with little regard for seeing and being seen. Read on and you'll see what we're talking about.

    Best of the nightlife
    Gio's Sports Bar & Grill

    Every night features a drink special at this neighborhood tavern, but we recommend Saturday nights the most, because of karaoke. Host Chris Golding keeps the fun going between wannabe singers, and the crowd represents a cross-section of Chicago, including hipsters, older regulars, the queer crowd and more. Even vegetarians will feel at home here, with selections including a hummus plate, quesadillas, a veggie wrap, a veggie burger and a Caprese salad on the menu.

    Good for groups
    Caro Mio

    Planning an outing for some unadventurous eaters? This cozy Italian spot could be just what you're looking for. Menu choices include all the usual suspects - traditional antipasti, risotto, pasta, chicken, meat, seafood - plus a few less conventional options for the explorers in the group. Not only that, but it's BYOB, so you can keep costs down while still having a good time. Just make sure to make reservations (only accepted for groups of six or more), as the storefront spot is actually pretty small.

    Cheap eats
    Budacki's Drive-In

    A trip to Budacki's isn't quite a toast to your health, but who can resist the Maxwell Street Polish, deep fried on a piece of French bread with all the fixings? Handmade milkshakes, award-winning pommes frites and a slew of other fatty goodies await you at this family-owned burger and dog shack just north of the L. Combo meals start at $3.50, and nothing costs more than seven dollars. Budacki's almost captures that small-town feel, with families dining on nearby picnic tables and kids running around with ice cream in hand (in the summertime, of course).

    Where to chill
    The Perfect Cup

    This independent, neighborhood gathering spot encourages you to take a breath on route to the L during your morning commute. Owner Anne Nuqui Merritt and a handful of her cousins are on site daily to get to know the customers, and to offer up sustenance like Anne's Special (espresso, coffee, chocolate and steamed half and half), chocolate and butterscotch chip scones from Little Miss Muffin, soup and sandwich combos and more. Find a seat on the few cushy couches or chairs in the back area; otherwise, there are a dozen tables from which to choose. There are also more than 16 outlets for you to plug in and do your work.

    In-the-know spot
    Sabor a Cuba

    At this simple, BYOB Cuban restaurant in Ravenswood, making the Famoso Sandwich Cubano is a precise art. Garlicky roast pork, ham, dill pickles and Swiss cheese are piled atop Cuban buttered bread while cold. The sandwich is then grilled in a sandwich press, called a plancha, until the bread is crisp, the cheese melted and the meats warm and savory. The usual standbys of lettuce, tomato and mayonnaise are eschewed in favor of yellow mustard, all for a mere $4.50. Sabor a Cuba has a menu that extends far beyond sandwiches, however, and each waiter is happy to provide a different favorite. Occupying a corner spot, the window-lined restaurant is sunny and cheery, made more so by the two-toned pink walls and Cuban artwork. Dark wood furniture, plenty of fresh flowers, and pink tablecloths and candles on each table add to the intimate, low-key ambience (try not to hold the restaurant's plastic pink flamingos against it).

    Need more help getting around? Use our Virtual L to find places by train stop or by neighborhood.

    Check out Centerstage Chicago food and drink deals!



  • Virtual L: Dempster (Purple)
    Contrary to popular opinion, Evanston has a lot to offer even to those who aren't pursuing higher education at the moment. Venture a bit south of Northwestern's campus and you'll find a whole lot to like - and, yes, some prowling Wildcats, too.Purple Line.

    Best of the nightlife
    Tommy Nevin's Pub

    When the going gets tough, the Irish drown their sorrows in pints of Guinness and bury their faces in baskets of fish and chips (or so the story goes). At this neighborhood bar, beer drinkers of all nationalities (and college majors) follow that lead, relaxing with a cold one and some better-than-pub-grub eats. Watch out - the darts games can get pretty serious here.

    Good for groups
    Addis Abeba

    You gotta love that Ethiopian restaurants revitalize an age-old dining concept: sitting and sharing. At Addis Abeba, which moved to Evanston after 15 years at the corner of Clark and Addison, eating is a celebration among friends and family. Food is presented on a large communal platter (called the mesob), dishes are shared, meals are savored, and forks and knives are forbidden.

    Cheap eats
    Wiener and Still Champion

    Be warned: You'll come here with the intention of spending a few bucks on a hot dog and fries (you can get your dog steamed, grilled or deep-fried), but you'll end up splurging on some of the menu's deep-fried goodies, including gyros, pickle chips and chili. Yup, you read that right: deep-fried chili. Still, your wallet won't take much of a beating, unless you decide to tackle the ridiculous Triple Undisputed (aka the 911): nine burger patties and nine slices of cheese on a bun for $22.50.

    Where to chill
    SPACE

    You could easily spend a few hours at this music venue, provided the right act is performing - and the all-ages club books bands of all types. Drop a few extra bucks to reserve a table, order up a pie from Union Pizzeria (housed under the same roof) and get to groovin'. They may have to kick you out.

    photo: Clifton Henri; vegan chocolate mousse
    In-the-know spot
    Blind Faith Cafe

    We won't call the Midwest's oldest and largest vegetarian place a hidden gem, but you might be surprised by it nonetheless. The restaurant, opened in 1979, gets creative with its meatless menu, offering everything from corn-and-potato enchiladas to seitan marsala to vegan chocolate mousse. Try the organic wines and beers, too.

    Need more help getting around? Use our Virtual L to find places by train stop or by neighborhood.

    Check out Centerstage Chicago food and drink deals!



  • Campus Road Trip: Bloomington
    Yogi's Grill & Bar in Bloomington, Ind.
    So what if the Indiana football team only has two Big Ten championships since 1900? Football road trips aren't just about the football, right? And with four wins this year, this team may actually be on the upswing ? but if the crimson and cream can't pull off a win, there are still plenty of classic Bloomington staples to lighten the mood. The 1,860-acre limestone-dominated campus has enough landmarks to last you a day ? the Sample Gates, the seven-story tall Indiana Memorial Union, the IU Art Museum (featuring Monet, Picasso and Pollock). So get up early, check out some impressive architecture and lovely gardens, and get all that cultural stuff out of the way so you can spend the next 13 hours hitting the bars.

    Best place to watch the game: Yogi's Grill & Bar (519 E. 10th Street, 812-323-9644)
    Boasting 26 HDTVs and three satellite dishes, Yogi's is the king of sports bars and your best bet if you're looking to catch some obscure cricket match. On a brittle, windy day in Bloomington, it's best to cozy up in Yogi's warm confines with one of the 40 beers on tap.

    Where to eat before the game: Nick's English Hut (423 E. Kirkwood, 812-332-4040)
    Opened in 1927, Nick's may be IU's most hallowed tradition, a charming English pub with an old-fashioned sign and a beer-drinking club named the "Bucket Brigade." Prime rib, chicken, burgers, and cheap beer ? Nick's is a must-see, so famous even Barack Obama stopped here on his campaign stop to Bloomington.

    Where to eat after the game: Mother Bear's Pizza (1428 E. 3rd St., 812-332-4495)
    The embodiment of a college pizza joint, Mother Bear's puts Goldfish crackers instead of croutons in their salads, will gladly deliver beer(!), and supplies thick, chewy, award-winning pizza. Wooden booths and a fireplace complete the classic college atmosphere.

    Best place to tailgate: The field across from the Memorial Stadium (1001 E. 17th St.)
    It's not so much the best place to tailgate as the only place. The more the team struggles, the less the students make it to the game, but this field is always filled, and you can always catch a bit of the sweet smell of burgers, hot dogs and the fleeting hope of an 8-5 season.

    Best of the night life: Kilroy's on Kirkwood (502 E Kirkwood Ave., 812-339-3006)
    For a brilliant night on the town, bar hop the clubs on Kirkwood ? The Jungle Room and Uncle Fester's, for sure -- but best to spend extra time at Kilroy's. Such a popular hotspot for students and sports fans, Kilroy's offers pre-admission passes to skip the big lines. Once inside, the 80s rock is blaring. Expect Bon Jovi.

    Where to go if you care nothing about sports: Rhino's Youth Center (331 S. Walnut St. 812-333-3430)
    Don't let the "youth center" tab throw you off: Rhino's is a venue that appeals to all ages and all social leanings, a "no drinking, no tobacco" haven for the straight-laced music fan. Among the bands to grace Rhino's are The Dodos, The Unicorns, Jimmy Eat World, Modest Mouse and Sufjan Stevens.

    Follow us throughout the college football season as we highlight the entertainment options at nearby Midwestern schools. And be sure to check out our guide to Chicago tailgating.

    Check out Centerstage Chicago food and drink deals!



  • Campus Road Trip: Ann Arbor
    Despite all the horrible rumors you may have heard about Miss Ann Arbor and her loose morals (mostly spread by Buckeye fans), she's not too bad of a town. Especially when the leaves are changing to the reds and browns of fall, a chill enters the air and the Maize and Blue colors of the University of Michigan are everywhere you look. This is more than a college town, it's a football city every time the Wolverines take the field at the Big House. And when surrounded by 100,000 fellow fans, you're going to need to know where to retire to, post-frenzy. (Note to foodies: This might be the only writeup of Ann Arbor that doesn't mention Zingerman's Deli. Be warned.)

    Best Place to Watch the Game: Scorekeepers (310 Maynard St., 734-995?0100)
    Every good college town needs to have at least one sports bar, and in Ann Arbor it's Scorekeepers. If you don't have tickets for the big game, you can watch it on any number of its gargantuan televisions, and take advantage of drink specials and food deals. If you get into town early, be there on Thursday night when the undergrads go nuts on $1 Long Islands. Where to Eat Before the Game: Fleetwood Diner (300 S. Ashley St., 734-995-5502)
    Since at least a few U of M games will kick off at high noon, you're going to need someplace to fill up on a good, greasy-spoon breakfast (before you start boozing). A reliable place that locals and students appreciate is the Fleetwood Diner (mostly at 2 a.m. or so). Is it big? No. Is it good? Yes. Does it ever close? Nope. Is it cheap? You bet.

    And in honor of A2's more "progressive" residents, Fleetwood offers the infamous "Hippie Hash," a plate full of veggies and potatoes. A number of other veggie options are on hand as well.

    Where to Eat After the Game: New York Pizza Depot (605 E. William, 734-669-8703)
    A long afternoon spent in the autumn chill calls for something warming and hearty?something that'll stick with you for a few hours. And until some enterprising business major opens "Beef Stew to Go," we'll stick with the NYPD. A couple big slices of cheese or sausage will carry you through the afternoon (and give you a good base for some more post-game beers). Will Chicagoans consider it good, considering the pride we take in pizza? Consider this: Expatriate Chicago-based Michiganders don't miss much about Ann Arbor's pizza scene, but often will pine for NYPD.

    Best Place to Tailgate: U of M Golf Course (500 E. Stadium Blvd.)
    The tailgate scene at Wolverines games is legendary. Undergrads and alums with parking lot space and pony kegs have seemingly endless energy (and stomach volume) to party from dawn 'til dusk on game days, and the place they like to congregate is not just the parking lot, but the nearby golf course. Located just across Stadium Boulevard from the Big House is the university's 18-hole course, which opened in 1930 but most likely never envisioned the greens being used as a venue for 'gating. Parking on game days is tough, and can run from $10 to $30 depending on the lots, but chances are you can find a willing renter to open up some lawn space for a few bucks.

    Best of the Nightlife: Ashley's (338 S. State St., 734-525-1667) or Blind Pig (208 S. 1st St., 734-995-8555)
    Any big college town has its fair share worth of bars: sports bars, dive bars, dance clubs, brewpubs, coffee & cocktail joints, and so on. So what's the one place you really should hit if you want to party the night away? For my money, I prefer the company of dozens of fantastic craft beers, so Ashley's 65 regularly changed handles of beer and tons of craft-brew bottles is where I'd while away the hours. But if you want to let loose and rock out, the Blind Pig is your destination. National and local rock acts play almost nightly, and The Bang, the fabled U of M hipster-dance extravaganza, is ground zero for performance-art style insanity.

    Where to Go If You Don't Care About Sports: 8Ball Saloon (208 S. 1st St. - beneath The Blind Pig)
    Every university campus has an underside?someplace a little seedy, a little rough around the edges, a little gritty. That place in the realm of U of M is called the 8Ball Saloon, and it's the dive you need when you want to separate yourself from screaming, drunken sports fanatics. Cheap drinks, low lighting, a solid rock n' roll juke box, the obligatory pool table and an entrance located in an alley; it's got everything you could ask for in a good, solid run-down boozer.

    Follow us throughout the college football season as we highlight the entertainment options at nearby Midwestern schools. And be sure to check out our guide to Chicago tailgating.

    Check out Centerstage Chicago food and drink deals!



  • Campus Road Trip: Madison
    When in Madison, watch all the Badgers action at State Street Brats.
    Home to the University of Wisconsin's main campus, the picturesque Madison is an eclectic mix of college students, hippies and, of course, sports fans. The heart of it all is State Street, a bustling pedestrian mall filled with shops, bars and restaurants connecting the campus to the Capitol Square. Although the city is a sight to behold any day, during home football games it transforms into a sports fan's dream. Seas of red shirts descend upon Camp Randall Stadium, stopping for games of flip-cup and two-story beer bongs along the way. Even if you don't have tickets to the game, you can still come along for the ride. Best place to watch the game: State Street Brats (603 State St., 608-255-5544)
    Throw on your Badger red, order a pitcher of Miller Lite and learn the words to "On Wisconsin" and you'll fit right in at State Street Brats, a campus staple for decades. For the best view of the game, head upstairs to watch on the huge projectors and other flat-screen TVs scattered throughout this friendly sports bar.

    Where to eat before the game: The Old Fashioned (23 N. Pinckney St., 608-310-4545)
    A big step up from standard college food, The Old Fashioned prides itself on using local ingredients and upholding Wisconsin's culinary traditions (there is an entire menu dedicated to cheese). For brunch, try the Wisconsin Benedict, Door County Cherry Granola or Walleye and Eggs ? the breakfast version of a traditional fish fry.

    Where to eat after the game: Ian?s Pizza (319 N. Frances St., 608-257-0597)
    Yes, there?s one in Wrigleyville, but you haven't truly experienced Ian's Pizza until you've been to the original location in Madison. UW students flock to Ian's almost on autopilot after the bars close, or when they need to refuel after a long day of tailgating. Get in line and grab your slice of mac 'n cheese, BBQ steak and fries or breaded chicken mashed potato.

    Best place to tailgate: Jordan?s Big 10 Pub (1330 Regent St., 608-251-6375)
    Most students tailgate outside friends' houses near the stadium, but rather than crash a stranger's party, head to one of the bars on Regent Street to get pumped up for the big game. Jordan's Big 10 turns its parking lot into a beer garden on game days, which fills up hours before kickoff. On a colder day, head inside for shuffleboard, pool and football on the big screens.

    Best of the nightlife: Church Key (626 University Ave., 608-259-0444)
    This popular bar is notorious for two things: long lines and stiff drinks. Get there before 10 p.m. to beat the rush and order a jack & coke ? one of them is more than enough to start feeling buzzed. The two-story bar also offers boots of beer, foosball, darts and free popcorn.

    Where to go if you don't care about sports: Karaoke Kid (614 University Ave., 608-294-1997)
    The only TVs in this tiny bar are dedicated to song lyrics. The Kid doesn't start hopping until after midnight, but it's always an option when there's a line everywhere else. Pay $1, pick your favorite song and order a sake bomb while you wait for your turn to sing. If you want to score points with Amy (the owner), opt for Simon and Garfunkel's "Cecilia" ? it's her favorite.

    Follow us throughout the college football season as we highlight the entertainment options at nearby Midwestern schools. And be sure to check out our guide to Chicago tailgating.

    Check out Centerstage Chicago food and drink deals!



  • Campus Road Trip: Iowa City
    Tailgating at the University of Iowa
    Is this heaven? No, it's Iowa ? or Iowa City, more specifically. And it's easy to see why people could mistake the two. Between the sprawling green lawns of the Pentacrest, crowned by the glistening Old Capitol building, and the ped mall, with lively watering holes and a grilled cheese stand that stays open past last call, the town that's home to the University of Iowa is truly divine. And it never feels more so than when hordes of black-and-gold-clad fans are armed with cases of Miller Lite and the propensity to sing "We're gonna fight, fight, fight for Iowa ... " at any given moment. It's football Saturday, and this is the way to do it right.

    Where to eat before the game: The Hamburg Inn #2 (214 N. Linn St., 319-337-5512)
    Open since 1948, the "Burg" or the "No. 2" (no one really knows what happened to the first one) is an Iowa City institution. Ronald Reagan and Bill Clinton both slid into booths here while campaigning in the state, but the small, family-owned diner more often caters to hung-over college kids downing one of its 12 specialty omelets with perfectly crisped spuds. Undergrads in desperate need of relief go straight for the chicken fried steak and eggs, smothered in thick, creamy sausage gravy. Best place to watch the game: The student section at Kinnick Stadium
    Plenty of Iowa "fans" skip the part where you actually go into the game, and instead head to one of the many establishments on the ped mall that happily cater to the crowds with their bevy of TVs, cheap fried food and pitchers of beer. But true fans actually do go to Kinnick Stadium, named after Iowa's only Heisman trophy winner, Nile Kinnick, to cheer on the Hawkeyes and scream the fight song after each touchdown. Though any section will do, the student section is where it's at: loud, rowdy and plenty of heckling of the visiting team. Fun factoid: When filled to capacity, Kinnick Stadium equals the fifth-largest city in Iowa. Best place to tailgate: Iowa City Rugby's Magic Bus
    The Fieldhouse parking lot used to be the locale of choice for Iowa fans with coolers in tow ? until a whiny Michigan fan, who got a little bit of beer spilt on him (and by "spilt" I mean "thrown on," and by "little bit" I mean "whole can"), ruined the fun. Hawkeyes marched on to the vast open field at the end of Olive Court, which sources tell me has now also closed. But, thankfully, the stalwart that is the Magic Bus remains. And it's easy to see why: a beat-up, old school bus with a stage on top, where bands can rock out and beer-chugging contests can be won. Pair that with a trailer stocked with beer kegs, TVs so you can watch the game, and a tolerable Porta-potty line, and this Bus truly is magical. There's a small cover, but proceeds from the tailgate benefit local charities.

    Where to eat after the game: Sam's Pizza (441 S. Gilbert St., 319-337-8200)
    This place really should be called Sam's Calzone, because you'd be crazy to not order the doughy yet flaky bundle of heaven, stuffed with ingredients like green peppers, mushrooms, onions, black olive (in the Vegetarian) or ground beef, red onion and lots o' cheese (the Cheeseburger). Sure, you'll find deep-dish and thin-crust pies here, too, but stick with the calzone, plus a side of ranch for dipping. And even though it could reasonably feed two, don't share.

    Best of nightlife: Quinton's (215 E. Washington St., 319-354-7074)
    Come to Quinton's early for a bread bowl filled with rich cheesy soup and half of a T.A.C sandwich, layered with turkey, avocado and cream cheese, but stay long enough to take in some tunes. This two-level bar and deli boasts the best jukebox in town, stocked with everything from Velvet Underground to Eric Clapton to Widespread Panic. The chill, older for Iowa City crowd (meaning patrons are actually 21) packs into the large booths that line the narrow, high-ceiling, tile-floored space, sucking down Big Girls of Boulevard Wheat and occasionally working up the energy for a round of foosball.

    Where to go if you don't care about sports: Vito's (118 E. College St., 319-338-1393)
    Don't let the Italian name or chicken fettuccine fool you: It's not leftover pasta you'll be taking home, but you won't likely leave Vito's empty handed. This is a straight-up pick-up joint, with mini skirt-clad 19-year-olds dancing to Rihanna wherever there's an inch of space and dirt-cheap domestics. To be fair, though, Vito's doesn't entirely eschew the whole sports scene. After all, this is where former Chicago Bears QB Kyle Orton partied with his good friend Jim Beam a few years back.

    Follow us throughout the college football season as we highlight the entertainment options at nearby Midwestern schools. And be sure to check out our guide to Chicago tailgating.

    Check out Centerstage Chicago food and drink deals!



  • Campus Road Trip: East Lansing
    Travelers Club
    Traversing the sprawling, expansive campus of Michigan State University can be a daunting task. Where to go? How to get there? The long distances between campus buildings and local hot spots have exhausted many an unaware undergrad, but that?s why we're doing the legwork for you in advance. We?d be happy to accept any green-dyed "Spartan" beers (and you thought that was only on St. Pat's day!) by way of your thanks. Best Place to Watch the Game: The Nuthouse (420 E. Michigan, 517-484-6887)
    If you can?t be at Spartan Stadium, you at least want to be close to some sort of athletic facility, right? So if you have to settle for someplace away from the field, you can plant yourself across the street from the home of the Lugnuts, Lansing's minor-league baseball team. The Nuthouse is just one of many sports-related destinations in the MSU area, but it's tough to beat the Nuthouse on deals. Anything from $1 PBRs to $5 pitchers will fit your needs to hydrate yourself during Spartan games. A healthy amount of televisions will make sure the game is on at every angle, and a full menu handles those booze-induced appetites. But one suggestion ? if you end up overserving yourself, try to resist the urge to run the bases in the offseason. Security doesn't like it much.

    Where To Eat Before the Game: The Peanut Barrel (521 E. Grand River, 517-351-0608)
    A long-time grub destination for Spartiers, the patio at the Peanut Barrel is a good place to start any autumn day in the sun (for as long as that sunshine lasts). With a wide range of favorites like burgers, chicken sandwiches, hot dogs, sandwiches and wraps, a lunch at the Barrel is a good place to power up before the game. Bar selections are pretty standard ? your run-of-the-mill drafts and bottles, but you've got to love a place that keeps your liver in mind: The Peanut Barrel limits your intake of their powerhouse Long Island Ice Teas to a maximum of two per customer per visit. How thoughtful.

    Where To Eat After the Game: Crunchy's (254 W. Grand River, 517-351-2506)
    Crunchy's is less a restaurant than it is a kind of rec-room for the entire MSU community over the last 25 years. With a wood-clad room, video games and pinball, pizzas and "East Lansing's Best Burger," they can take care of any lingering post-game hunger. But it's the bar that has most of the appeal ? it's like drinking in Dad's den ... if Mom has a couple dozen micro-brews on tap. If you're interested in bulk purchases, check out the deal you can only find on huge state-school campuses: 270 ounces of beer (just over 2 gallons) in a huge bucket, starting at 25 bucks.

    Best Place to Tailgate: South Campus Tennis Courts (Wilson Rd. between Red Cedar and Chestnut)
    Parking lots open as early as 7 a.m. for noon football games, and determined 'gaters are out there with grills, drinks, couches, green face paint and more in tow. The MSU campus is an alcohol-free area, but the administration thoughtfully lifts those restrictions in the lots for the time that they're open for tailgating. And not that we'd suggest you flaunt any of those rules, Spartiers know that the tennis court area, all the way on the other side of the main parking lots and the practice fields, are a good enough distance to give a real party the ol' college try. Best of the Nightlife: Rick's American Cafe (224 Abbott Rd., 517-351-2288)
    Usually, when you call a place "Rick's Cafe," you're trying to evoke some sort of Casablanca-esque vibe to your location. Maybe a cutout of Bogey, maybe a piano player you can ask to play it again, Sam. Rick's in East Lansing is a subterranean thumping-bass sorority-girl-in-tight-pants dance extravaganza, beneath ground just to separate you a little more from any sort of social values you may have. Sure there's food, but there's plenty of food other places ? Rick's is for drinks, happy hour specials, pretty people clad in MSU green, football players and more drinks. There is a cover charge, but it's usually no more than a few bucks ? no big city $20 entry fee here.

    Where To Go If You Don't Care About Sports: Travelers Club (2138 Hamilton Rd., Okemos, 517-349-1701)
    It's a little out of town, but the town of Okemos is really just a hop and skip away from campus. The Traveller's Club is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, with a menu that features locally sourced ingredients like apple cider, eggs, honey and pies, all from Michigan growers and factories. The real draw to the Traveller's for non-sports entertainment is the one-and-only Tuba Museum, home to dozens of tubas and the worlds-only "Sousafountain" on the patio. Enjoy a buffalo burger surrounded by the large, unwieldy instruments ? ask nicely and they'll serenade you on your birthday with the bass-register brass.

    Follow us throughout the college football season as we highlight the entertainment options at nearby Midwestern schools. And be sure to check out our guide to Chicago tailgating.

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  • Campus Road Trip: Evanston
    The Bat in Evanston. NU students celebrate their first Big Ten win of the season with a beer tower at Bat 17.
    The Big Ten's brainy, red-headed stepchild, Northwestern lacks the vaunted football history of most of its conference cohorts (Otto Graham and Darnell Autry notwithstanding). But we'll say one thing for the feisty Wildcats squad: It always seems to make things interesting. Same goes for the surrounding community of Evanston. While the condo-filled city might not astound you at first with its array of entertainment options, you'll find enough here to make the short trip worth your while. The best part? You won't have any trouble finding tickets to the game. Best Place to Watch the Game: Tommy Nevin's Pub (1450 Sherman Ave., 847-869-0450)
    Whoever Tommy Nevin is, he must have a hard time making decisions. This multi-room establishment includes a sit-down restaurant with a menu of traditional Irish favorites, a large bar area with the requisite arcade games and dart boards and an adjoining banquet room (formerly dubbed Nevin's Live) where many a private party is held. But on Saturdays, the focus is squarely on one thing: NU football. Students and alums clad in purple gear watch their team on the several flat-screens mounted throughout the bar, enjoying $4 20-ounce drafts of Miller Lite. Expect to hear the fight song a few times if the Cats are performing well. Where to Eat Before the Game: Clarke's (720 Clark St., 847-864-1610)
    If you can't sniff out some kegs 'n' eggs at an off-campus apartment, this diner should provide the fuel you need to scream yourself hoarse. The skillets (three eggs, cheese, meat and vegetables atop Northshore potatoes) are popular, but you can get anything from chocolate chip pancakes to a turkey club at any time. Where to Eat After the Game: Bat 17 (1709 Benson Ave., 847-733-7117)
    What better way to celebrate a victory than with an $11 sandwich? Wait, hear us out. These aren't just any sandwiches; these two-fisted delights ? bearing names like the Tazmanian Dirvish and the Clubber Lang Club ? consist of fresh, grilled bread from nearby Bennison's Bakery, stacked high with ingredients like hot pastrami, applewood-smoked bacon, Wisconsin muenster and Russian dressing (that combo may not actually be on the menu, but damn, it sounds good). For drinks, order one of the 105-ounce beer "towers" (mounted on either purple Northwestern helmets or black Bears headgear, $22) ? if you dare. Tailgating spot: Henry Crown Sports Pavilion/Norris Aquatics Center (aka SPAC) parking lot (2311 Campus Dr. on the lakefront; take Sheridan Road to Lincoln)
    Unless you're the owner of a season parking pass, you won't be parking or tailgating outside Ryan Field. Don't worry; the on-campus lots offer free, weekend-long parking (beginning at 4 p.m. on Friday) and better parties, anyway. Of the several options, the lot outside the school's huge sports and aquatic center is your best bet for finding students from whom to mooch some burgers and beers. Why? It sits directly outside the fraternity quad, and NU has one of the most Greek-heavy social scenes in the conference. Memorize some secret handshakes, and you just might nab yourself a new nickname. Best of the nightlife: Prairie Moon (1502 Sherman Ave., 847-864-8328)
    Though you're probably coming into town having heard at least one wild story about the nearby Keg, we can't recommend the place to anyone with a real ID. If you've really got a jones for big cups of Miller Lite and some good, old-fashioned dancing on top of the bar, at least head to P Moon first. Within its labyrinthine space, you can scarf down some contemporary American regional cuisine (everything from the Blue Moon Burger to Key Lime Margarita Shrimp Skewers), sip on Belgian ales, play pool and darts, groove to the occasional DJ or just settle in on one of the comfy leather couches. And then, by all means, go get sloppy. Place to Go If You Don't Care about Sports: Unicorn Cafe (1723 Sherman Ave., 847-332-2312)
    Every college town has at least one quirky cafe that serves up whole bean coffee drinks, shakes, sundaes and creatively named paninis. But the nice thing about Unicorn is that it doesn't cater exclusively to students. Sure, you'll see your fair share of students working on laptops and meeting with professors, but don't be surprised to catch one of Evanston's more interesting locals setting up shop at one of the tables for the day. Say hello in between sips of your pumpkin spice or gingerbread latte.

    Follow us throughout the college football season as we highlight the entertainment options at nearby Midwestern schools. And be sure to check out our guide to Chicago tailgating.

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  • Virtual L: Ashland (Green/Pink)
    There are many Chicagoans who get off at the Ashland stop only when heading to an event at Union Park (like the popular Pitchfork Music Festival). But take the train there on a less-busy day, and you'll find there's more to the area than water bottle-hawkers and clogged streets. Our guide will help you explore both adjacent 'hoods: the upscale West Loop and the grittier River West.

    Best of the nightlife
    Bottom Lounge

    Above-average bar food? Check. Tons of beers to choose from? Check. Live music? But of course. The resurrection of this infamous rock club has been welcomed with open arms by West Loopers in need of lots of different kinds of entertainment (we haven't even mentioned the second-level Volcano Room, a tiki-themed rum bar). The main draw is the music - instead of the typical rotating group of cover bands, you'll find a regular lineup of longtime rockers and up-and-coming indie acts.

    Good for groups
    Alhambra Palace

    From about two blocks away ? where Alhambra's glowing red sign and massive copper turrets are plainly visible ? it's clear that subtlety is not on the menu at this seven-room Moroccan restaurant. The owners were aiming for the most palatial experience outside of the real Alhambra in Spain, and they deliver. The center of the restaurant, crowned in a 35-foot high, copper-laden ceiling, sits up to 450 people. There's also a bar, a formal dining room wrapped in hand-carved walls, a 6,000-square-foot banquet hall holding 300-400 people, and two sky box rooms. Moroccan and French fare dominates the menu, with entrees like chicken a la Marakesh (slowly cooked chicken breast smothered in a pomegranate-walnut sauce) and the Alhambra Palace kabobs, which come with beef, chicken, mustard-glazed veggies or shrimp.

    Cheap eats
    Gaudi Coffee and Grill

    You might think this is a simple coffee shop upon entering - but you'll think differently once the friendly wait staff hands you the colossal menu. Inside, you'll find everything from omelets ($6.50) to chilaquiles ($8.95), burgers ($7.50-$9.50) to salads ($6.50-$8.50) and even tapas (starting around $5). Good luck choosing.

    Where to chill
    Jupiter Outpost

    Formerly a showroom for owner John Dymond's art, this spot made the jump to coffeehouse when community members pleaded for a comfortable spot to sit and sip. When Jupiter met the challenge, appreciation began spilling in from locals and area artists who had tables, chairs and coolers to spare. Other contributions, such as fresh roses adorning the cafe, are sporadic gifts from doting neighbors. In a small aquarium near the back, visitors can find the house mascot, a 10-year-old Red Eared Slider turtle named Bebe ? admirers volunteer to refresh the tank weekly and, if she's lucky, plod down to the docks. Check out original oil on canvas from local artists (and Mars Gallery mainstays), or stop in for a quiche with green onions, a cup of Vietnamese coffee or a slice of its homemade?and other-worldly?rum cake.

    In-the-know spot
    Ina's

    Unlike most breakfast spots in the city, Ina's brick-and-timber former industrial confines offer plenty of space to spread out for your morning nosh. And what a nosh it'll be - especially if you get the signature corn scrapple filled with spicy sausage and eggs, and or the gingerbread and sour cream pancakes. Halfway through your meal, the breakfast queen herself, Ina Pinkney (sporting a frilly halo of white hair), will most likely make her way to your table for a motherly pat on the back or some quick conversation. It's the same for lunch and dinner, except at these meals you'll find an assortment of classic Southern fare like fried chicken (available gluten-free!) and pulled pork.

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  • Campus Road Trip: Urbana-Champaign
    Check the temperature of a few University of Illinois students and you'll inevitably find they have Zook fever, as in Illini football head coach Ron Zook, who has taken the team from the bottom of the Big Ten standings to a Rose Bowl appearance last year. First-time visitors should be sure to set some time before or after the game to check out the mammoth campus, especially to take in the main Quad or the newer Engineering Quad. Frat row is usually full of rambunctious undergrads, if you're into taking part in that sort of thing. But at some point, you need to get to business: crashing the college pubs and eateries. So let's check out Champaign's best.

    Best place to watch the game: Legends Bar and Grill (522 E. Green, 217-355-7674)
    With memorabilia of Illini legend Harold "Red" Grange" on display, Legends further tailors to sports fans with an enormous projector screen on big game days?and never charges a cover. And for a bar usually rampant with undergrads at night, it's strikingly clean.

    Where to eat before the game: Murphy's Pub (604 E. Green, 217-352-7275)
    Campustown's most popular dive rarely charges a cover and attracts the experienced U of I upperclassman-and-grad-student crowd. Murphy's aces-in-the-hole: big, juicy burgers?the best in Champaign?and some dish called "Irish Nachos," a seemingly non-Irish order of waffle fries topped with sour cream, Monterey Jack cheese and salsa.

    Where to eat after the game: Papa Del's Pizza (206 E. Green, 217-359-7700)
    A U of I institution, Papa Del's provides Chicago deep-dish pizza that rivals the best of the Windy City. The 45-minute wait for a thick, filling pie is a bit of an Illini rite of passage, but it's especially satisfying after a victory at Memorial Stadium or Assembly Hall.

    Best place to tailgate: The fields south of Kirby Avenue
    On a campus notoriously surrounded by acres of fields, the ones across from Memorial Stadium on Saturday mornings are beautifully filled with orange-clad fans, content to toss the football around or to grill a couple of burgers. And with a winning team, things tend to get more and more rowdy and crowded off of Kirby, so come early.

    Best of the nightlife: Blind Pig Co. (120 N. Walnut, 217-398-1532)
    For undergrad nightlife mayhem, hit up Green Street after 10 p.m. But for a classy evening with nearly 30 beers on tap, hit up Blind Pig in downtown Champaign. Dark wood-lined walls, friendly bartenders, and live piano music equate to a far better experience than a hot, sticky campus bar.

    Where to go if you care nothing about sports: Caffe Paradiso (801 S Lincoln Ave, Urbana, 217-384-6066)
    Obscure indie music in the background, Christmas lights hung from the ceiling and a geographical dictionary for your reference needs. If you consider yourself the Bohemian type?or if you're in dire need of some strong Intelligentsia coffee?this is the place to be.

    Follow us throughout the college football season as we highlight the entertainment options at nearby Midwestern schools. And be sure to check out our guide to Chicago tailgating.

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  • Virtual L: Sox/35 (Red)
    Jack Schaller owns the legendary Sox bar
    photo: courtesy of Bridget Cicenia
    Heading to watch the "good guys" down south? You don't just have to settle for overpriced beer and hot dogs at U.S. Cellular Field. Bridgeport continues to grow, offering new options for an increasingly diverse crowd - though the oldies are the real goodies.

    Best of the nightlife
    Shinnick's

    Go to some neighborhoods on the North Side and you can't go a half-block without passing an Irish bar. A majority of the time, these establishments are Irish in name only, having opened to capitalize on a certain neighborhood or post-ballgame foot traffic. Shinnick's is the real deal, having been owned by an Irish family for over 70 years (with history going way beyond that). The bar here is an authentic Brunswick, circa 1890, made out of mahogany and alleged to have been on display at the Columbian Exposition in 1893. The beer may not be quite as cheap as it was then, but it's definitely reasonable - perfect for the hordes of Sox fans who come to drink before and after the game.

    Good for groups
    Schaller's Pump

    With the 11th Ward Democratic offices across the street, mayors Daley, Kennelly, Bilandic and Kelly were known to draft policies behind the walls of this huge, family-run place - the oldest restaurant/bar in Chicago. On game night or during a playoff run, a nation of Sox fans is likely to spill, along with their beers, into the parking lot. Soak up the brews with hearty food like cheeseburgers, hash browns and plenty of pork products.

    Cheap eats
    Maxwell Street Depot

    Commonly referred to as the "Ghetto Dog" by its regulars, this 24-hour spot keeps the menu simple and inexpensive ? Polish sausages, hot dogs, hamburgers and fries ? all so cheap you could buy an order of each and still stay under $8.50. The Depot's trademark dish, however, remains its bone-in pork chop sandwich, a gloriously juicy (or just greasy, it's hard to tell) piece of simplicity, always topped with mustard and a mountain of onions. Blazing-fast service means you're actually eating your sandwich before you realized you made a decision. Oh, and make sure you check your orders for extra goodies, because the Depot is notorious for supplying about three extra orders of fries for no explainable reason (and no extra charge). (Note: Fine diners looking for a deal will want to check out Han 202, where the five-course meal for $20 can't be beat.)

    Where to chill
    Bernice's Tavern

    Head to this neighborhood tavern for hospitality beyond compare and a few shots of Jameson on the rocks. Family-owned and run since 1965, this unpretentious bar takes in all kinds, from newly transplanted artists to longtime locals. You'll need to buzz in, but once you're inside you'll enjoy cheap, cold beers, a jukebox stocked with The Misfits, retro '80s tunes and pop/rock classics and chatty bartenders in a kitsch-littered space.

    In-the-know spot
    Ramova Grill

    There is no printed menu at this politico-favored spot, just original slate tiles mounted above the counter with chalky lettering. In the only nod to modernity, a dry-erase board has been added for listing the breakfast specials. The prices, like the decor, are a throwback. A burger and fries will set you back $2.25. The menu is focused and sparse: burgers, pork chops, liver and onions and fries. Homemade in 50-gallon batches, the chili is saucy with a sprinkling of meat, beans and a sweet tinge of cinnamon and allspice balancing the heat. Served with a side of shredded cheese and diced onions, this concoction is more Cincinnati-style than steak Tex-Mex brew.

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  • Virtual L: Wellington (Brown)
    Sam & George'sGrab breakfast and chill out at S&G's
    Welcome back to the party, Wellington stop. We've missed you. After closing for a year to get the requisite Brown Line face-lift, Wellington is back in line on the way to Belmont or Fullerton. Here's how to celebrate:

    Best of the nightlife
    Mad River Bar & Grille

    A chill sports bar by day, things heat up quickly at this lodge-themed party spot when the post-college crowd rolls in around 10 or so to turn the place into Dance Party USA. You'll know rather quickly if you're of the target age for the weekend soiree, and you'll act accordingly - either jumping into the mix or heading out to someplace a little quieter.

    Good for groups
    Kirkwood Bar & Grill

    If you're in the latter group for the Mad River crowd, this place might be more your speed. Encompassing multiple rooms and a massive beer garden, the place especially caters to Indiana and Nebraska grads, serving up quality bar fare like The General, a savory steak sandwich named after legendary IU coach Bob Knight.

    Cheap eats
    Clark Street Dog

    Here's what you do: Grab a dog for $3 (or a double cheeseburger for a buck more) and head to the adjacent Clark Street Bar to wash it down while sitting at one of the dozen or so bar stools pointed at the lone TV in the joint. Beer and food for under eight bucks. Done and done.

    Where to chill
    Sam and George's

    Now this is what a diner is supposed to be! Walk in and you are greeted by plush booths, a row of stools at the counter and one of the owners inviting you to sit down. Waste the morning away with a Greek omelet and an always-full cup of coffee while reading the paper, or navigate your way through the massive menu and you're sure to find something that suits you. And don't be shocked if the waitress calls you "Sweetie," or "Hon." It's what they do.

    In-the-know spot
    Fresh Sushi and Noodles

    Tucked right under the train tracks, Fresh was all but forgotten during the Wellington construction. For our money, this is the best sushi deal in the area. And you're selling yourself short if you don't try one of the Thai-inspired noodle dishes on the menu.

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  • Virtual L: Addison (Blue)
    A great spot for Mexican eats.
    photo: Zinny Fandel
    El Potosi offers a whole lot of Mexico in a little shack of a restaurant.
    You can go a lot of directions from the Addison stop, and almost all of them are international. Whether you're looking for a truly authentic Irish pub, a taste of German good cheer or some mean Mexican food, it's all here. Better yet, it's all affordable ($3 Guinness!) and never pretentious. So, um, what are you waiting for? Best of the nightlife
    Abbey Pub

    A staple among the Chicago music scene since 1973, this spot is much more than a mere Irish pub - though that might be enough, thanks to regular free, acoustic shows and a menu of staples like shepherd's pie, bangers and mash and Guinness meatloaf plus all the beers you can handle. But here's the kicker - the complex also holds one of the city's finest music venues, with a stage that has hosted everyone from Guided By Voices to Iron & Wine to up-and-coming local hip-hop artists.

    Good for groups
    Mirabell

    Mirabell has brought a bit of Germany to this mostly residential neighborhood, from the 25-plus beers to the schnitzelbank (carving bench) serving up varieties including ham and cheese and paprika. Two dining rooms flank the bar area and a small beer garden in the side yard is occasionally open for dining alfresco, while waitresses in traditional costume pleasantly minister to the lively crowd.

    Cheap eats
    El Potosi

    You'll have to fight to spend more than $10 at this pretension-free spot (which really feels like a restaurant you'd find in Mexico), as the $3.75 tortas are both highly recommended and highly filling. Vegetarians can stick with aguacate (avocado) fillings, but rib eye, pork, chicken, steak and sausage options abound. Other wallet-friendly options include tacos, burritos and tostadas, and BYOB is encouraged.

    Where to chill
    Curio Cafe

    This sunny cafe is truly a neighborhood gem, serving mostly organic, fair trade and free-range breakfast and lunch at unbelievably reasonable prices. The menu changes seasonally, but staple items like bagels, pancakes and omelets are always available. Everything is made to order at Curio, so service can be pretty slow, but just avoid stopping in when you're in a time crunch and you'll be fine. Curio is also kid-friendly and perfect for the hip, urban parent. There's a kids' menu, a play area with cool toys, organic candy, hormone-free milk and a huge chalkboard that many artistically inclined adults would have problems resisting if it wasn't low to the ground for little ones.

    In-the-know spot
    Christina's Place

    Any night of the week you can belly up to Christina's Place, which is no bigger than a large living room, for big specials: $3 Guinness, $2 PBR and $10 buckets of Coors Light. This four o'clock neighborhood joint lights up later into the evening, when the 10 barstools are full, the tables are occupied and there's a wait for the pool table. A quarter-worthy jukebox holds such classics as Hank Williams Sr., Dead Milkmen and Huey Lewis and the News. The music represents the clientele as much as the staff, who can be found patronizing the bar on off nights. Everyone seems to know each other, but it's by no means exclusive.

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  • Virtual L: Harrison (Red)
    Colorado rack of lamb Mercat brings Catalan cuisine to the South Loop.
    Printer's Row, part of the South Loop by the Harrison Red Line, may be known for its literary past, but there's a whole lot more to love in the present - including martinis, pigs and classic jazz. If you're really looking to pore over a good book, well, you can find that, too.

    Best of the nightlife
    Villains Bar & Grill

    The first thing you'll notice when walking into this establishment is the bar, decorated in multiple prints of Andy Warhol's classic image of a gun-toting Elvis Presley, which sets the theme. The next thing you'll see? Drink specials galore, especially on the weekends. Try a heavy-duty martini, and soak some of it up with the enormous Garbage burger, featuring bacon, avocado and caramelized onions.

    Good for groups
    Mercat a la Planxa

    Cheap it ain't, but this tapas hotspot in the Blackstone Hotel is a great spot for a lively gathering, with tons of food options (the bacon-wrapped dates are always a hit, but that's just the beginning) and creative cocktails to boot. If you don't want to spend half an hour trying to pick and choose your way through the menu, go for the chef's tasting ($55/person) or, for a real special occasion, the cochinillo asado - a whole roasted suckling pig carved tableside (must order 72 hours in advance).

    Cheap eats
    Standing Room Only (SRO)

    From the outside, this spot may not look like much more than a small restaurant with some casual tables inside and out, but don't discount the menu before you've taken your first bite. The fries are crisp and crinkled, the cheeseburgers are rich and there are a number of vegetarian options, such as salads and a very tasty portabella mushroom sandwich with garlic-infused spinach. A fries, drink and a sandwich meal will run you about $8; it's a bargain but not so low that it discourages some of Chicago's most notable citizens from stopping by. (It's rumored that Mayor Daley enjoys an SRO turkey burger now and again.)

    Where to chill
    Printer's Row Fine and Rare Books

    This store contains an immensely sophisticated collection (a 1780 edition of "Don Quixote," for instance), and an owner who'll happily talk to you about all of it for as long as you can stand - or sit. A large reading table, glowing fireplace and antique-looking lamps make the shop itself feel more like a collector's study than a bookstore, which is actually kind of what it is.

    In-the-know spot
    Jazz Showcase

    Unlike the typical smoky, cramped, dingy confines of most jazz clubs, Joe Segal's famed club (which moved to this tucked-away location a few years back) is a comfortable, candle-lit space with ample tables and wide aisles. The focus is on the players and not the decor. While you can still catch the occasional legend like saxophonist Von Freeman blowing on a Saturday night, the Showcase long ago opened its doors to young lions respectful to the genre such as Nicholas Payton and Joshua Redman. There's no minimum drink requirement, though tickets will set you back $20-$25.

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  • Daytrippin' Kenosha
    Washington Park Velodrome
    Kenosha is the red-headed stepchild of the Chicagoland area. Despite the millions of people that cruise through it on their way to Milwaukee, Lake Geneva ? even Racine ? not many ever venture too deeply into the depths of Kenosha proper. In fact, if not for the World Famous Brat Stop, most people might never spend a minute off to the side of I-94 at all. While Kenosha isn't the cultural melting pot that Chicago is, or the sausage-and-beer Mecca that Milwaukee remains, it has a lot to offer that you can't find in between the two metropolises without breaking the bank on fuel prices. Kenosha is the only Wisconsin locale to be serviced by Metra ? so grab yourself a $5 weekend pass and make the round-trip trek for next to nothing. The Electric Streetcar Circulator
    Transit from an ancient era, eco-friendlier for a new age
    It wasn't so terribly long ago that Chicago was serviced by a fleet of streetcars. Occasionally, you can still see a track here and there buried in the roads around town, but the electrically powered transit system is now only in old photographs and memories. Not so in Kenosha. When you disembark from your modern-era Metra train, you can jump on the Electric Streetcar Circulator and take a two-mile trek around town. With four stops on the loop, the five refurbished electric streetcars take you on a trip through the city?s Harborpark neighborhood, two different historic districts, the downtown business district and a scenic view along the lakefront. The recently reworked tracks ensure safety along the lines, and the electric power source give the streetcars a zero-emission carbon profile. (Kenosha bus lines also operate on compressed natural gas to keep the transit system carbon-neutral.) The best part? The fare is part of the old-school experience: only a quarter to ride. Franks Diner
    Gargantuan piles of "Garbage"
    Franks first opened its doors in 1926 at the hands of Anthony Franks, and has served Kenosha's hungry ever since. With a menu featuring homestyle favorites like pancakes, club sandwiches and burgers, Franks is a classic railroad-car-style experience. There's but a few stools and a handful of booths ? be prepared to wait out the crowds or show up early. The main reason to be there as the sun cracks over Lake Michigan is the famed Garbage Plate. A huge pile of hash browns, green peppers, jalapeno peppers, onions, up to three different kinds of meat (ham, bacon or sausage) mixed in with five(!) eggs make up the full garbage plate. If you don't feel up to the full pile, the half Garbage Plate is just 3 eggs, but still full of all the fixins that make up the plate. Not in a good mood? Double check the website for the "diner etiquette" section, detailing how one should act in their establishment. You might think twice about grumbling your way through the morning. Washington Park Velodrome
    Two wheels, two legs, tons of speed
    Milwaukee has the Brewers, Green Bay has the Packers, Chicago has ? well, Chicago has just about everything. Kenosha's claim to sporting fame is its 80-year-old Velodrome, where professional and amateur bicyclists alike arrive to test their mettle against other two-wheelers. Races in the open-air track take place throughout the summer, and if you want to get in on the action, Monday night training races take place for a $2 fee to get your big wheel, BMX or 10-speed on the track. Interested in racing for real? Join up with the American Bicycle Racing group and take on the 333 meters of concrete that makes up the Velodrome. Jack's Cafe
    Tough to find, worth the trek
    If you're looking for a soda-jerk and general-store experience from yesteryear, you could do far worse than Jack's Cafe, inside Andrea's Gifts on 60th Street. For 97 years, Jack's/Andrea's served as a soda shop, ice creamery, tobacconist and general store for the town populace. Nowadays, Andrea's offer a variety of chotchkies and gifts to fritter your income away, and their walk-in humidor and signature blends of pipe tobacco (still kept in glass jars) will please those that remain smoke-friendly. But in a tiny corner of the Andrea's experience, there still remains Jack's Café. While the focus of the place used to be entirely on the soda shop experience, it's been relegated to less than a quarter of the store. No matter ? you can still get a killer black cow, as well as Orange Dreams, sundaes, malteds and specialty mixed sodas like the Summer Breeze. Also available is a full breakfast and lunch menu, an excellent cup of coffee and a great patty melt. The Wine Knot
    Comfort and class on the menu and in the glass
    Despite a name based on a lame play on words (why not?), the Knot tries a lot harder than it has to, in a market that one might not think would appreciate a bistro-style place. While the easy assumption for Kenosha would be a "cheese curds and High Life only" diet, the Wine Knot offers much loftier fare. The menu straddles the line between finer dining and upscale versions of homestyle food. Pork confit, braised short ribs and duck breast shares space with meatloaf and hamburgers. Oh, and the wine? With 60 different selections of wine on hand, 30 different bottles available by the glass, and wine flights a steal starting at $8, the Knot is a wine bar that'd be welcome in any city neighborhood, let alone one that?s 60 miles to the north.

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  • Up the Ante in Indiana
    Rolling the dice in NW Indiana casinos
    photo: courtesy of Blue Chip
    Vegas is great, but when you factor in the four-hour flight and expensive hotels, a trip to the Strip starts to lose some of its charm. That's where Northwest Indiana comes in. Boasting five casinos within an hour of Chicago (or six if you include the brand-spanking-new Four Winds Casino just over the border in Michigan), this gritty area of Indiana can provide a rockin' good time if you play your cards right.

    On a recent trip, I arrived at my first casino, Horseshoe Casino in Hammond, Indiana, just a half hour after leaving my South Loop pad. Bright lights, a dizzying array of slot machines and smoke?lots and lots of second hand smoke?greeted me as I walked into the Harrah's-owned casino. Horseshoe is by far the most popular Northwest Indiana casino, raking in $38 million in January 2008 alone. It's similar to a Vegas casino because it's loud, obnoxious and busy. And if you're into slots, this is the place to be; it has 2,000 machines. The casino is in the midst of a major renovation (though it's still open throughout the construction) to make it an even bigger gaming destination.

    I immediately lost an embarrassingly large amount of money at Horseshoe playing at the $10 (the minimum) blackjack tables, so I made my exit and headed 10 minutes away to Resorts East Chicago. I planned to go directly to the blackjack tables, but the savory smell of the buffet (supposedly ranked the best in all of Northwest Indiana) greeted me; I dined on an extravagant array of sweets and savories, like freshly cut roast beef, macaroni and cheese and lots of ice cream with even more toppings ($11.99 for lunch). Score an even better deal by stopping by Resorts' Friday and Saturday night seafood buffet for $24.99, which includes all-you-can-eat crab legs. Yum.

    Resorts' actual casino area, with its low ceilings, abundance of tables and a host of scary-looking people (like the drunk talking to himself), felt a little too crowded and claustrophobic for me, so I drove another six minutes and arrived at Majestic Star I & II in Gary, Indiana.

    A Trump casino used to reside here, but Majestic took over and what now remains are two nearly identical casinos connected by a hallway. Sound Vegas-enough for you? I loved being able to run from one casino to another whenever the tables were taking too much of my hard-earned cash. Both were pretty full, but I only had to wait about five minutes when I wanted to change tables. The 2,400 slot machines and the 58 table games were enough to keep me occupied (and take my $120), but I had more casinos on my list and moved on.

    Another 20-minute drive landed me at Blue Chip Hotel & Casino, where I found hoards of older people. And by older people, I mean wheelchair-bound, dialysis-machine-connected people. But the casino itself is huge and spacious, so that was a bonus. Unlike the previous gaming centers I visited, Blue Chip is just one floor, so it seems more expansive than it actually is. But despite that it was crowded with people gambling away their social security checks, there were still plenty of unoccupied tables. Another plus: It's located only a 30-second drive away from the Michigan City outlet mall, where you'll score great finds and only pay 6-percent sales tax. Take that, Mayor Daley!

    Michigan City is just a few minutes away from the Michigan state border, where you'll find Four Winds Resort & Casino. I know that it's not technically in Northwest Indiana, but if you've gone this far, you might as well experience the awesomeness that is Four Winds: The 120,000-square-foot casino just opened last year, and holds 3,000 slot machines and thousands of people. With marble floors, a shopping center, a child-care facility and a stunning hotel on site, it may convince you to never again make the trek to Sin City.

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  • The Ultimate Zoodown: Brookfield vs. Lincoln Park
    photo: courtesy of Lincoln Park Zoo
    When I was 18, I fell in love at the Detroit Zoo. The object of my affection was a card-holding member of the primate family. They called him the ring-tailed lemur; I called him Lemmy. What Lemmy and I had was more of a summer fling than a heart-throbbing romance, as the glassed-in exhibit at the zoo was his home and he wasn't permitted to take leave or have overnight visitors. Heartbroken upon my departure, I steered clear for years of the places that kept my love prisoner. Recently though, I've discovered two top-notch zoos that warranted a visit, but this time I'd stray from Lemmy's tree-swinging kind.

    Day 1: Brookfield
    It doesn't matter where I travel, I could take a trip to Sin City and I'd still be surrounded by screaming children. But at Brookfield I was fully prepared for the loud rush of little people, given the obvious destination. I approached the zoo's entrance, lost somewhere in a sea of field-tripping pre-school students and their tired-eyed chaperones.

    After having no luck scoring the toddler's discount, I laid down $11 for my full-sized, no extras included, adult ticket. I wasn't too pleased with the price at first but after consulting the zoo's glossy little pamphlet and learning that exhibits here stretch over 215 acres, the $11 was easy to shrug off. While making my way toward the "Africa!" exhibit, I had to walk through clusters of restaurants, souvenir stands and sidewalk vendors. It felt like a trip to Six Flags, sans the roller coasters. Keeping in line with that tourist-appeal, the grounds housed several displays of vibrant animal-inspired cut-outs and signs. The place looked more like a giant playground than a zoo. And that's not just because it was overrun with infants.

    If you can manage to ignore the less-than-natural setting, the main attractions are captivating. Brookfield has over 20 exhibits and animal houses including butterflies, dolphins and pachyderms?none of which you'll find at Lincoln Park.

    photo: courtesy of Lincoln Park Zoo
    Day 2: Lincoln Park
    You can almost rent a swan-shaped paddle boat at the Lincoln Park Zoo for what it costs just to get into Brookfield. And then there's all the savings banked: less time in traffic, less money on gas, less irritation searching for a parking spot (the 151 and 156 buses stop here). Oh, and did I mention admission is always free?

    On the downside, there isn't nearly as much to see. Maxing out at 35 acres, the Lincoln Park Zoo isn't even comparable in size to Brookfield. But, it is on the lakefront and has maintained the land's natural beauty. Instead of ridiculous life-size cut-outs and vibrant arrows pointing in every direction, this zoo takes the hands-off approach. The grounds have far more green and rustic terrain and visitors are free to explore 15 exhibits, including birds, sea lions and bears, without ever feeling obliged to follow a set path.

    Guidebook Rating: Both zoos are great and I enjoyed my time at each of them. If I had to choose just one, I'd stick with Lincoln Park for its convenient location, natural setting and free admission. But if you've got the extra money and are looking to spend an entire day at the zoo, Brookfield is the way to go.

    Stats: Both zoos are open every day of the year and hours change seasonally. General admission to the Brookfield Zoo costs $12 for adults, $8 for seniors and children ages 3-11. Special shows, rides and tours cost extra and can be found on the zoo's website. Admission to the Lincoln Park Zoo is always free for everyone.

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  • Virtual L: Western (Brown)
    photo: Clifton Henri; the Brauhaus band
    Germans, Koreans, Eastern Europeans...they all love Lincoln Square. Find out why by getting off at this lively, diverse stop.

    Best of the nightlife
    Chicago Brauhaus

    If you're looking for a place where Oktoberfest never seems to end, a night out at the Chicago Brauhaus can provide just that non-stop German party. With St. Pauli girl-like servers dolled up in timeless Bavarian outfits, a lederhosen-clad Oompah band playing nightly at 7 p.m. wooden paneled walls and the young and old alike taking a turn on the dance floor, it's hard not to get caught up in the feeling of good cheer.

    Good for groups
    Lincoln Karaoke

    This isn't your average karaoke night at some dive trying to get a few more bodies inside. Entirely devoted to those flashes of self-delusion wherein you imagine having the pipes of Celine Dion or the leather-clad cool of Joey Ramone, this place adds a twist to the experience: You can rent a private room for $25 an hour. Each room features couches, a plasma TV, gigantic remote controls and a selection of American, Korean and Chinese tunes. If you have a group of friends that you want to keep near, far or wherever you are, serenade them until they wanna be sedated; you don't have to share your talent with the rest of the bar.

    Cheap eats
    Chubby Wieners

    "Basically anything with chubby in front of it is really big," said the counterstaff at this hot-dog shop, explaining the difference between the regular cup and the chubby cup of soda. Indeed, size is the only difference between the three-inch kiddie-size hotdog (99 cents), the traditional Chicago-style dog ($2.25) and the "FamousChubby" dog ($3.35), a girthy seven-inch hotdog with a diameter of more than one inch.

    Where to chill
    Lincoln Square Lanes

    The final word in old-school bowling, Lincoln Square Lanes debuted in 1918 and has been fortunate enough to survive the ebb and flow of bowling trends with its charm intact. Aside from being the oldest lanes in Chicago, Lincoln boasts another distinction: It's the only upstairs bowling alley in town. Situated right above an Ace Hardware, bowlers climb a flight of stairs and enter Lincoln's 12 lanes through the bar, a space almost as large as the bowling area itself.

    In-the-know spot
    Kiko's Market and Restaurant

    Goulash, burek, veal soup; it's rare to come across food like this, and even rarer to come across food this good. The kitchen's specialty, goulash, is a beef stew in a light sauce with red peppers and spices. It comes with a basket of freshly baked lepinje (pita-like bread) and mashed potatoes with parsley. The whole thing is only six dollars. So leave your vegeterian friends at home and fill up on some of the best dishes from the Balkans.

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